1. Russia Redux • Возвращающаяся Россия

Perm (11.2010)

Founded in 1723, Perm is a heavily industrialized region with more than 80 plants and factories. The easternmost city on the western continent, this city of almost 1,000,000 was closed to foreigners for decades due to it importance as an armaments manufacturing center. During WWII much of Soviet industry and many cultural artifacts were moved to Perm as the city, which lies 866 miles east of Moscow, was deemed far enough away from the Front. Many artists and men of letters, including the Kirov Ballet Troupe, were also evacuated to the region. Perm's darker past revolves around its notoriety as the home of Perm-36, one of the USSR's harshest & most infamous Gulags. Closed only in 1987, Perm-36 is the only gulag in Russia which remains standing. Today it serves as a memorial and education center.

Still a manufacturing powerhouse, today's Perm is imbued with a new vibrancy as it positions itself as a burgeoning avant-garde cultural center. Will Perm's cultural revolution turn it into the next Bilbao? Though difficult to predict, the city pulsates with a new energy that young people, in particular, find difficult to ignore. Whereas 60% of Perm's youth previously wanted to leave for the bright lights of Moscow, a common problem in Russia's regions, now only 8% think of leaving. In Russia's regions, that's enough to be called a revolution.
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Parmailovo village house detail.
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Parmailovo village house detail.

parmailovoparmaylovorussiapermperm regionrussian villagerussian wood house detailrusurusu photography

  • On the street in Solikamsk. На улицах Соликамска.
  • Rainbow on the road to Parmailovo. (Perm Region, Russia)
  • A warm welcome in Parmailovo, a village of about 100 people. (Perm Region, Russia)
  • In the small village of Parmailovo, the home/museum and sculptures of local craftsman, Yegor Utrobin. (Perm Region, Russia)
  • Yegor Utrobin's sculptures with the home/museum he built in the background. (Perm Region, Russia)
  • Witches by Yegor Utrobin.
  • Sitting near some of Utrobin's works.
  • Utrobin & his dog on his front doorstep.
  • Parmailovo residents. On the right is the local cop.
  • Parmailovo ladies.
  • Komi-Permyak woman. (Parmailovo Village, Perm Region, Russia)
  • Playing the garmoshka. The woman is 87 years old & going strong.
  • A village dance in Parmailovo.
  • Lena gets into the swing of things.
  • Parmailovo village house detail.
  • Parmailovo village house.
  • Utrobin's vision.
  • Rustem with local Parmailovo artist, Yegor Utrobin.
  • RT crew with Utrobin & his wife.
  • Perm crossroads.
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