1. Russia Redux • Возвращающаяся Россия

Perm (11.2010)

Founded in 1723, Perm is a heavily industrialized region with more than 80 plants and factories. The easternmost city on the western continent, this city of almost 1,000,000 was closed to foreigners for decades due to it importance as an armaments manufacturing center. During WWII much of Soviet industry and many cultural artifacts were moved to Perm as the city, which lies 866 miles east of Moscow, was deemed far enough away from the Front. Many artists and men of letters, including the Kirov Ballet Troupe, were also evacuated to the region. Perm's darker past revolves around its notoriety as the home of Perm-36, one of the USSR's harshest & most infamous Gulags. Closed only in 1987, Perm-36 is the only gulag in Russia which remains standing. Today it serves as a memorial and education center.

Still a manufacturing powerhouse, today's Perm is imbued with a new vibrancy as it positions itself as a burgeoning avant-garde cultural center. Will Perm's cultural revolution turn it into the next Bilbao? Though difficult to predict, the city pulsates with a new energy that young people, in particular, find difficult to ignore. Whereas 60% of Perm's youth previously wanted to leave for the bright lights of Moscow, a common problem in Russia's regions, now only 8% think of leaving. In Russia's regions, that's enough to be called a revolution.
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Huge vats of salts being processed. (Silvinit Factory)
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Huge vats of salts being processed. (Silvinit Factory)

solikamskperm regionrussiarusurusu photographysilvinit minefertilizer processing

  • Peter & Lena conferring.  Питер Оливер и Елена Гимон. Корреспонденты под землёй обсуждают свой сюжет.
  • Waiting to be filled with salts. (Silvinit Mine)
  • Mining equipment. (Silvinit Mine)
  • Сброс остаточной калийной соли.
  • Salt dust everywhere. (Silvinit Mine. Solikamsk, Russia)
  • Mining equipment.
  • Dima filming; salt dust flying.
  • Salts. (Silvinit Mine. Solikamsk, Russia)
  • Phase one processing - love that phosphorescent glow! (Silvinit - Solikamsk, Russia)
  • Bubbling salts.  Процесс флотации, отделения солей одних от других. Какое-то адское варево.
  • Equipment controls.
  • Silvinit's processing plant. Соликамск, обгогатительный комбинат. Жутковато там.
  • Compressed salts. (Silvinit Factory).
  • Huge vats of salts being processed. (Silvinit Factory)
  • Potassium & magnesiums salts being processed into fertilizer. (Silvinit Plant) (Solikamsk, Russia)
  • Silvinit plant control room. (Solikamsk, Russia)
  • With our translator, Rafis Faizov, at Silvinit's headquarters.
  • Our Solikamsk hotel.
  • My hotel room in Solikamsk - someone's idea of classy.
  • View of Solikamsk's Cathedral Square from my hotel room window on a gloomy morning. The cathedrals are from the 17-18th centuries. (Solikamsk is a town of  approximately 102,000)   г. Соликамск. Соборная площадь. Вид из окна гостиницы "Сильвинита"
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